Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation

I frequently have a new client come in who is concerned about what they call "acne scarring" and when I look closely at their skin, I can see no scar tissue but rather Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) which is often a result of acne - but is not a scar, by definition. I think it is really important to identify what the actual skin condition is that you are trying to treat as each may require a different approach in treatment.

Estheticians usually see two kinds of PIH. Lesions appearing red to light brown are generally epidermal hypermelanosis where a darker grey to brown often indicates a deeper condition known as dermal melanosis.

So here is the simple prescription for your home ritual: Peel, Heal, Prevent, and Protect.

Peel:
Peeling and exfoliation plays a major role in both clinical treatment and home care, this step is critical in removing dead, stained surface cells quickly.

Heal:
Apply a topical antioxidant. I strongly recommend L- Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) - not only is it incredibly healing, but is a powerful, multi-tasking anti-inflammitory that will, over time, significantly brighten the skin's appearance.

Prevent:
Slow down or "inhibit" Tyrosinase, the enzyme that catalyzes the oxidation of the amino acid tyrosine and is involved in the formation of melanin. There are several natural ingredients to look for in brightening products that act as Tyrosinase Inhibitors such as Licorice Extract, Arbutin (Bearberry Extract), and Lemon Peel to name a few. Check your labels for these ingredients if you are looking for natural/non-toxic solutions.

Protect:
Finally, although it should go without saying at this point, it would be a failure not to mention...SPF. You can't even think about treating ANY type of pigmentation without the diligent use of sun protection. I hate to say "it's just common sense" because well, apparently, it's not.

Oh, and by the way, a hat wouldn't be a bad idea either, nudge, nudge.

The one product I just can't live without.

People ask me all the time what I use on my skin. The honest answer is: a lot of different things. I don't do the same thing every day. Not only do I find it boring, so does my skin. You don't go to the gym, only doing bicep curls, and expect to have washboard abs. Changing it up is good. It's really more a rotation of products all containing the different elements that make up, what I call the "repertoire of anti-age" which is really my skin's circuit training program for aging gracefully.

That being said, there is one thing that I simply can not live without. It really is my secret weapon for glowing, absolutely beautiful skin. Lotion P50 - the piece de resistance by cherished French company Biologique Rechereche. There is no doubt about it. Not only is this one of the most esteemed of all skin care lines around, this particular product has a cult following by the most in-the-know beauty devotees from here to Dubai, quite literally. There is simply no other single product out there like it. I have used it every day for years. I can't imagine the world without it. It is beyond love. It's an obsession.